The "it place"

Tue, 22 Aug 2006 07:33:26 GMT

They say you shouldn't eat fish on Mondays. They are wrong, if the fish is fried anchovies, and you decide to taste them at NOPA.

I first heard of NOPA several months ago while reading this review on my usual bus ride to work. The restaurant's name, in classical SF yuppie fashion, is the newly-invented term for "North of Panhandle" (what's next - WOWA, West of Western Addition?). But it's the reservation policy that surprised me -- not many places in the city can afford to take only same-day reservations and still be in business 6 months later. But NOPA can, and when I called around 7 on a Monday night, the host could only suggest I try my luck and walk in without reservation, with a 45 minute wait. Fine, I can handle it, I'm up to a few cocktails.

I walked in and was struck by how happening the place really was. All 110 seats at the restaurant, and at the bar, were taken, and there was a hefty line even to get to the host's station. It seems to me that NOPA is the "it" place of 2006 (no doubt it will show up on Michael Bauer's Top Ten list of the year). It is a beautiful space - a wonderful mix of modern and old-fashioned, huge windows overlooking the street with tall mirrors in between, everything awash in brown and taupe tones, abuzz with activity but not too loud to have a conversation. We passed our wait (which ended up being 30 minutes) by sampling NOPA's signature cocktails, refreshing both in their price (most expensive was $8) and their flavor - old cuban (double mojito no ice, served in a champagne glass) and wash house (organic vodka, basil and lime juice, smelling very similar to my favorite Insalata Caprese appetizer, but, of course, with a dizzyfying effect). Just after we scored the much-coveted seats at the bar, we were led to our table on the mezzanine, overlooking all the activity of the kitchen and lower floor, along with a peek through the windows.

The menu, which changes daily, is fairly short (just over 20 items) but, unusually, the picky eater in me would've been happy ordering most of the dishes on the menu. Armed with SF Chronicle's 3-star review, I started working on our choices back at the bar, so by the time we were seated, I was ready. I went for the baked goat cheese, with crunchy crostini, colorful pickled beets and a bit of frisee ($9) - the goat cheese was warm and flavorful, and for once there was enough crostini on the plate for all of the cheese. I definitely have to try baking goat cheese at home, it is perfect for the chilly San Francisco nights and much more interesting than the cliché baked brie. But the appetizer that stole my heart was the little fried fish (anchovies) with lemon cucumbers and romesco sauce ($9). I admit it - I am a fish fan. I choose fish over chocolate any time of day or night. These anchovies were nothing like the canned stuff, the dish embodied everything I love about fish - flakiness, freshness, and its light flavor greatly enhanced by a dip in the sauce. This is the kind of fish I remember eating on my trip to Greece, which unfortunately I rarely get to taste in our fine Pacific coast city. It was wonderful.

Our main courses were still good, but not up to the level of the appetizers. My companion had a split roasted leg of lamb (which turned out a bit too chewy, and too red even for medium-rare), served with baby acorn squash and gypsy peppers (wonderfully grilled, with tons of flavor, even though I'm not a huge fan of grilled veggies, $19). I opted for a fish dish (surprise!) – Mediterranean fish stew ($18), with chunks of tomatoes and fennel, served with a hefty piece of grilled bread and bright rouille (new term for me - you eat, you learn). I am not a huge fan of octopus because I hate the chewy texture, and if the description of the dish mentioned it I wouldn't have ordered it - but I am glad I did since I have never, ever tasted such soft octopus. The stew also had great chunks of what I decided was halibut, and overall was a lovely, very filling main dish (albeit a bit too tomatoey for my taste).

Desert was appetizers all over again - we opted for warm ricotta, drizzled with honey and served with walnut toast ($7), which reminded us of the goat cheese starter. It was not your typical decadent over the top restaurant desert - but ricotta had a wonderful creamy texture, with the honey adding just the right touch of sweetness. It was the ideal end to our satisfying meal - a perfect mix of restaurant atmosphere and homey, flavorful food.

At NOPA, dinner is served until 1 AM, so who knows - perhaps this will be the end of late night garlic fries at Calzones...

Happy Birthday to my favorite LJ User!

Fri, 09 Dec 2005 20:20:24 GMT

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The "it place"

Happy Birthday to my favorite LJ User!